Story of Arthur Arbesser
[vc_row][vc_column width=”1/1″][vc_single_image image=”2160″ img_link_target=”_self” img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]與Arthur初次相見的情況非常有趣，在新銳設計師大賞”Who is on Next”突然有個人攔住我問道「有個設計師非常有意思，你不來採訪他真的太可惜了！」，我這才發現，差一點就錯過了此次大賞的贏家。來自奧地利的Arthur是個活潑開朗的設計師，他的設計雖然簡單，卻帶有強烈的個人風格，但最討人喜歡的，是看著他一件一件口沫橫飛地講述著自己的理念，新銳設計師應有的熱情，想必就是如此了。
I met Arthur at the exhibition of ” Who is on Next” last year. He was at the first stand simply because he won the first prize of it. I was attracted by his personality soon as he started to talk. And that’s what I’ve been told by everyone, everybody falls in love with him immediately. If you have ever seen him holding his works in both hands and talking about his idea, you will understand.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”2154″ img_link_target=”_self” img_size=”full”][vc_single_image image=”2153″ img_link_target=”_self” img_size=”full”][vc_single_image image=”2163″ img_link_target=”_self” img_size=”full”][vc_single_image image=”2155″ img_link_target=”_self” img_size=”full”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”1/1″][vc_column_text]自2005年於倫敦聖馬丁學院畢業後，Arthur立刻前往義大利找尋機會，天賦異稟的他，很快地便進入Armani擔任品牌設計師。說起這段在大品牌下工作的日子，Arthur覺得他最大的收獲就是對於系列服飾完整的認知以及生產線的熟悉度，「我跟一般新銳設計師最不同的地方可能在於，我做的衣服不只是想要自己開心，而是要完成一個完整的Collection。」。
為什麼他會在畢業後離開倫敦，這樣一個接納新想法新設計的環境，而選擇來到米蘭這樣保守的城市？「我想要做一個實業家！」Arthur說道「倫敦是一個對新銳設計非常友善的地方，但總有些過於藝術而不切實際，我想要做的，是真正能讓人穿上的服飾。」。在擔任品牌設計師的第七年後，Arthur覺得，是時候實踐自己的夢想了！於是在今年二月，他放下大品牌的光環，回到原點，創立同名品牌Arthur Arbesser，事隔多年後再度回到新銳設計師的行列，他笑說：「我可能是最老的新銳設計師！」。但經過多年的磨練，很快地，在同年的七月份，他就以第二個春夏系列贏得VOGUE的青睞，榮登“Who is on Next”冠軍寶座。
這次採訪很幸運得來到Arthur的住處，滿墻的畫作以及滿屋子奇怪的小東西，充分表現出他創作的靈感來源。「我喜歡線條，各式各樣乾淨的線條。」Arthur指著牆上的畫作「像這位畫家Heinz Stangl，他的畫作用色如此豐富又複雜，確還是能看見清楚的條紋細節，真是我最重要的靈感來源。」，Arthur的服裝充滿著不同的元素，極簡的線條帶著驚喜般的細節，跟他鬼靈精怪的個性相呼應著。其中他大量運用幾何印花以及較為剛硬的線條，「我對建築、室內設計和家具有著說不出的喜愛，也將相似的元素大量應用在我的服飾中，不過我的算數超爛的！所以只能問我線條，不要問我數字喔！」
談到他的服裝，Arthur認為，會穿上他所設計的服飾的女人，肯定有著重視心態多過於體態的自信。「就我所知，穿Arthur Arbesser服飾的女人形形色色，高矮胖瘦均有。我想創造的並不是貼身、性感，而是一種簡單舒適，且略帶幽默感的女人味。這就是我的理念，或許不是人人都能瞭解，但我不求每個人都能喜歡我的設計概念。」，說到這，他突然拉起我前往他的工作室，開心地向我展示著下一季新品的元素。「這是我的第三季系列服飾，也是我準備最周全，最完整的一個系列，我真是迫不及待想讓你們看看！」，看著木板上色彩鮮艷的人造毛料、金蔥布料以及幾何花紋的織品範本，讓人不禁期待Arthur的下一個，和未來的每一個系列服裝問世。
（同文刊載於BRAND名牌誌二月號，三采文化版權所有，欲轉載請注明出處。）[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]After graduating form Central Saint Martin in London, Arthur moved to Milan to start his carrier as womenswear designer under a well-known fashion house.I was confused about one thing: how come a new, fresh and young designer decided to leave London and move to Milan? “London is a nice and fantastic place.” he said, “but what I want is to do something REAL.”
It has been 7 years that he has worked under a fully structured label. It was in 2013 that he decided to end his long journey as a brand designer and to create his own line ARTHUR ARBESSER. The 7 years of experience absolutely have brought him to another level. Though he’s still a “new designer” for the industry, his capacity and ability in fashion design are insanely outstanding. “I might be the oldest young designer, hahaha.”
“The most important thing after that 7 years of working and learning, what I want to do is to design a COMPLETED COLLECTION. Not just anything I’d like to make.” The matured collection soon took him to the first place of new designer’s battlefield, and oh yes the sweet victory has came into his pocket. Not only in “Who is on next” but he also just finished the fashion show in Roma for AltaRoma.
I was so happy that I could really visit his house! After all the things that I’m interested the most are their inspirations and their truly selves. He showed me his favorite artist Heinz Stangl, “Look at his work, it’s so sexual and complicated yet you can still see the lines clear.” he said “and those stripes, I love stripes.” It’s kind of similar to his works, you see a minimal lines but it’s full of different elements and details. “I’m so into architecture, interior design and furnitures! That’s why I’m having a lot of geometric things in my collection. But sorry, I’m very bad at math haha.”
“I’d love to stay real with my own line. I don’t wanna do the design that everyone likes, I don’t need to please any body, I can stay true to my real aesthetic.”
And for women who are gonna wears his clothes, you don’t need to worry what kind of body you have. It’s more than a mental things to a physic thing to wear. If you have a great sense of humor believe in yourself as a unique soul, then you are the right women for Arthur Arbesser.
[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”1/1″][vc_single_image image=”2158″ img_link_target=”_self” img_size=”full”][vc_single_image image=”2159″ img_link_target=”_self” img_size=”full”][vc_single_image image=”2162″ img_link_target=”_self” img_size=”full”][vc_single_image image=”2156″ img_link_target=”_self” img_size=”full”][vc_single_image image=”2157″ img_link_target=”_self” img_size=”full”][vc_single_image image=”2161″ img_link_target=”_self” img_size=”full”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”1/1″][vc_column_text]Lookbook reserved to Arthur Arbesser
Text by Yu Lee
Photo by Yu Lee Rights reserved to YUTOPIA
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